Enchanted Iris: 18K Gold Art Nouveau Earrings with Plique-à-Jour Enamel

Within these picturesque Art Nouveau earrings crafted in 18K yellow gold and plique-à-jour enamel, a fleeting daydream of an iris meadow glistening of old mine brilliant cut and rose cut diamonds is captured by a glance through a windowpane. Almost whirling through the gold framework, these graceful irises are ever so eager to climb up their future goddess's neck.

Antique jewelry object group: earrings long hanging
However, it was clear to us from the beginning that this piece wasn't in its original form anymore when it was first offered to us. Instead, it was previously altered into a small artefact as is shown on the photo with the presenting hand. Therefore, we've adjusted the two plique-a-jour lids into a pair of earrings in absolute accordance with the era in which they were manufactured, namely the Art Nouveau period.

Condition: excellent condition
  -  (more info on our condition scale)

Country of origin: Although it does not carry any legible control marks we believe this to be of French origin.

Style: Art Nouveau - Art Nouveau (French for New Style) is an international movement and style of art, architecture and applied art - especially the decorative arts - that peaked in popularity at the turn of the 20th century (1890–1905).

The name "Art Nouveau" is French for "new art". It is also known as Jugendstil, German for "youth style", named after the magazine Jugend, which promoted it, and in Italy, Stile Liberty from the department store in London, Liberty & Co., which popularised the style, and in Holland as “Sla-olie-stijl”, Dutch for “salad oil style” after a advertisement poster for this product that was made in that style.

A reaction to academic art of the 19th century, it is characterized by organic, especially floral and other plant-inspired motifs, as well as highly stylized, flowing curvilinear forms. Art Nouveau is an approach to design according to which artists should work on everything from architecture to furniture, making art part of everyday life. Although Art Nouveau fell out of favour with the arrival of 20th-century modernist styles, it is seen today as an important bridge between the historicism of Neoclassicism and modernism.
  -  See also: Art Nouveau or more info on styles

Style specifics: Art Nouveau - The floral ornaments and botanical designs are very typical for the Art Nouveau style. Also the use of curvilinear lines is typical for this period.

Period: ca. 1900
  -  (events and facts in 1900)

Source of inspiration: Mother Nature (see also: flower symbolism)

Theme: Iris - click here for an explanation on the iris

Material: 18K yellow gold
  -  (more info on precious metals)

Technique: Enamelling is an old and widely-adopted technology. The ancient Egyptians applied enamels to pottery and stone objects. The ancient Greeks, Celts, Russians, and Chinese also used enameling processes on metal objects. Enamel is the colorful result of fusing powdered glass to a substrate by firing, usually between 750 and 850 degrees Celsius. The powder melts and flows and hardens to a smooth, durable vitreous coating on metal, glass or ceramic. According to some sources, the word enamel comes from the High German word smelzan (to smelt) via the Old French esmail. Used as a noun, "an enamel" is a usually small decorative object, coated with enamel coating, such as a champlevé or a cloisonné (different techniques).

Plique-à-jour, (French for "braid letting in daylight"} is a vitreous enamelling technique where the enamel is applied in cells, similar to cloisonné, but with no backing in the final product, so light can shine through the transparent or translucent enamel. It has a stained-glass like appearance and is considered very challanging technically. (From: Wikipedia)

Diamonds: Four old mine brilliant cut diamonds with a total estimated weight of approx. 0.32 crt. and 34 rose cut diamonds and senailles . A senaille is a simplified rose cut diamond, a small diamond chip with perhaps a few polished facets. We do not have the weight of the rose cuts diamonds nor the senailles which is normal in our trade when it comes to rose cut diamonds and senailles.

Total diamond weight: approx. 0.32 crt. (without the rose cut diamonds)

Birthstones: Diamond is the birthstone (or month stone) for April.
  -  (more info on birthstones)

Hallmarks: No trace.
  -  (more info on hallmarks)

Dimensions: height 7,30 cm (2,87 inch)

Weight: 20.00 gram (12.86 dwt)

Reference Nº: 11139-0001

Copyright photography: Adin, fine antique jewelry

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