Art Nouveau's Artistic Allure: A Horn and Diamond Hair Comb

This Art Nouveau French gold hair comb, dating back to circa 1890, is a captivating piece that embodies the wonder of the era's artistic innovation. Crafted from horn and adorned with ten rose cut diamonds, it is an ode to the natural and organic motifs that defined the Art Nouveau movement. The use of horn, a material praised for its lightness and versatility, combined with the luxurious touch of 18K yellow gold, creates a sense of awe in its intricate design and craftsmanship. This hair comb is not just an accessory; it's a testament to the era's ability to transform everyday objects into enchanting works of art, inviting admiration and amazement in its delicate beauty.

Antique jewelry object group: hair piece

Condition: excellent condition
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Country of origin: France

Style: Between Victorian and Art Nouveau - Victorian decorative arts refers to the style of decorative arts during the Victorian era. The Victorian era is known for its eclectic revival and interpretation of historic styles and the introduction of cross-cultural influences from the middle east and Asia in furniture, fittings, and Interior decoration. Victorian design is widely viewed as having indulged in a regrettable excess of ornament.

The Arts and Crafts movement, the aesthetic movement, Anglo-Japanese style, and Art Nouveau style have their beginnings in the late Victorian era. Art Nouveau (French for New Style) is an international movement and style of art, architecture and applied ar - especially the decorative arts - that peaked in popularity at the turn of the 20th century (1890–1905).

The name "Art Nouveau" is French for "new art". It is also known as “Jugendstil”, German for "youth style", named after the magazine Jugend, which promoted it, and in Italy, Stile Liberty from the department store in London, Liberty & Co., which popularised the style. A reaction to academic art of the 19th century, it is characterized by organic, especially floral and other plant-inspired motifs, as well as highly stylized, flowing curvilinear forms.

Art Nouveau is an approach to design according to which artists should work on everything from architecture to furniture, making art part of everyday life.
  -  See also: late-Victorian, early Art Nouveau, eclecticism or more info on styles

Style specifics: Late Victorian / early Art Nouveau - The subject of this piece, although typical 19th Century, announces the coming of the Art Nouveau style.

Period: ca. 1890
  -  (events & facts of this era, poetry of this era, fashion of this era)

Material: 18K yellow gold
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Extra information: Horn - The fibrous, pointed growth on the heads of some animals which, being tough, light, and easily worked, has for centuries been used in various forms for ornamental wear and utilitarian purposes. The horn principally used was ox-horn, ranging from white to dark brown, which has been made onto buckles, brooches, etc.

In China articles have been made of Rhinoceros horn. The use of horn was revived by René Lalique (who employed it for making decorative combs, hair ornaments, and elaborate tiaras) and by Lucien Gaillard.

From: An Illustrated Dictionary of Jewelry, autor: Harold Newman, publishers: Thames and Hudson

Diamond(s): Ten rose cut diamonds. We do not have the weight of the diamonds which is normal in our trade when it comes to rose cuts.

Birthstones: Diamond is the birthstone (or month stone) for April.
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Hallmarks: Although it carries a typical French control mark representing an owl , we cannot be sure it is actually French as the owl was also used for items in finished condition that were brought to be examined by the French Assay office (the eagle’s head was used for items brought in unfinished).
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Dimensions: height 12,90 cm (5,08 inch)

Weight: 14,20 gram (9,13 dwt)

Reference Nº: 18017-0151

Copyright photography: Adin, fine antique jewelry

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